How to restore the softness of leather, suede, and nubuck after water, de-icers, and improper cleaning

Any shoes, bags, or jackets made of natural leather, suede, or nubuck change over time. The material gradually becomes less soft, less flexible, loses elasticity, and after winter or improper cleaning, can noticeably roughen.

Suede sneaker owners especially encounter this problem often. After machine washing, the shoes dry but instead of the usual soft suede, a stiff material with uneven nap and light spots appears.

Many believe the item is hopelessly damaged. In fact, in most cases, the problem is not color or dirt. The material simply needs restoration. That is why there is a dedicated care step in professional restoration called conditioning.

What is conditioning?

Despite the name, conditioning has nothing to do with applying grease to the item. It is the process of restoring leather, suede, or nubuck after exposure to water, de-icers, deep cleaning, or extended use.

During conditioning, the material receives special components that help restore its softness, elasticity, and a more natural texture.

To draw a simple analogy, conditioning can be compared to using fabric softener after doing laundry.

Fabric softener doesn’t clean the fabric—it makes it softer and more pleasant to the touch.

Conditioning serves a similar purpose for natural leather, suede, and nubuck.

And the formulas used for this step are called conditioners.

Why do leather and suede become stiff? There are many more reasons than you might think.

Most often, the material loses its properties after:

• extended use;
• rain and heavy soaking;
• exposure to road salts;
• deep cleaning;
• machine washing;
• use of harsh detergents;
• improper drying near heaters or in direct sunlight.

In all these cases, changes occur in the material’s structure. It becomes less elastic, rougher, and recovers poorly after bending.

Fact or myth?

If suede becomes stiff after washing, it can no longer be restored.

❌ Myth.

In many cases, softness can be restored if the right restorative formula is used. How to tell if the material needs restoration? There are several signs indicating that regular cleaning is no longer enough.

• The leather has become stiff.
• Suede has lost its velvety texture.
• The nap doesn’t rise well after cleaning.
• The color looks dull even after stains are removed.
• Light creases remain after bending.
• The shoes have become rough after winter.
• Stiff patches or streaks appeared after washing.

If you notice several of these signs, chances are the item doesn’t need new dye, but rather a restoration of the material’s structure.

Professionals use different formulas depending on the cause of the problem.

If the material is overly dry

Over time, leather, suede, and nubuck gradually lose some of their natural oils. The material becomes less elastic, the nap looks dry, and the surface loses its pleasant softness. In such cases, the main goal is to replenish this loss and return the material’s natural flexibility.

Vlotho recommends

FRESHOIL — restorative dressing (fatting)

FRESHOIL helps restore softness to suede and nubuck, improves elasticity, revitalizes the nap, and aids in recovering the natural richness of color. It's especially recommended for use after deep cleaning or at the first signs of the material drying out.

💡 Expert tip
If the material feels dry after cleaning, don’t rush to apply dye. First, restore its condition — this often significantly improves the appearance of the product.

If the item has been damaged by de-icers or improper washing

After winter, road de-icers can penetrate the material and continue to affect it even after the white stains are removed. A similar situation occurs after washing suede shoes in a washing machine. Detergents alter the material’s condition, and improper drying worsens the effect. As a result, suede becomes stiff, the nap lays unevenly, and stains and light spots appear. In such cases, you need not only to restore softness but also to help the material recover from the effects of salts, de-icers, and detergents.

Vlotho recommends

SAUERFETT SF10 — conditioning dressing (acidic fatting)

SAUERFETT SF10 is designed to restore suede, nubuck, and textiles after exposure to road de-icers, salt, and improper washing.

This product helps to:

• restore softness to the material;
• reduce the effects of salts and de-icers;
• improve nap texture;
• reduce stains and blotches caused by improper washing;
• make the material more even and pleasant to the touch.

In its effect, SAUERFETT SF10 can be compared to a fabric conditioner — it helps the material recover after harsh conditions.

How to choose the right product?

If the problem is - What to use

The material has become dry after extended wear - FRESHOIL (fatting)

Suede or nubuck dried out after deep cleaning - FRESHOIL (fatting)

After winter, shoes have become stiff - SAUERFETT SF10 (acidic fatting)

Material stiffened after machine washing - SAUERFETT SF10 (acidic fatting)

Stains and blotches appeared after improper cleaning - SAUERFETT SF10 (acidic fatting)

The main thing to remember:

Cleaner - removes dirt.

Dye - restores or changes color.

Impregnation - protects material from water and dirt.

Fatting — helps restore softness, elasticity, and natural texture to leather, suede, and nubuck.

This is why professional care rarely ends with just cleaning or coloring. If the material becomes stiff after exposure to water, de-icers, deep cleaning, or improper washing, it’s best to restore its properties first before deciding on further care steps.