Which dye or product to choose for leather, suede, or nubuck?

If you’ve decided to restore your favorite shoes, bag, jacket, or other leather, suede, or nubuck item for the first time, you’ve probably encountered the same problem.

You open an online store — and there are dozens of products. Cleaners, degreasers, color restorers, dyes, protectants, creams... Manufacturers promise their product will solve all problems at once, but after purchase, the result often isn’t what you expected.

The reason is simple: there is no universal product. Some formulations are for cleaning, others restore the material, a third return the color, and a fourth protect the item from moisture and dirt.

The good news is that understanding this is much easier than it seems. You just need to know what task each product category performs.

In this article, we will look at the main care products for leather, suede, and nubuck and explain when each is truly necessary.

The first rule — don’t buy a product based solely on its name. The most common mistake is searching not for a solution to the problem, but for a specific product.

For example: “I need a dye.” — Even though the item might just be dirty.

Or the opposite: “I’ll try a cream first.” — Even though the leather has lost so much color that a good result isn’t possible without dyeing.

Before buying any product, you should answer just three questions:

• What material is the item made from?
• What exactly happened to the item?
• What result do you want to achieve?

The answers to these questions will immediately narrow down the suitable products.

Cleaners — the first step of any care routine

Almost any work with leather or suede professionals begin with cleaning. It seems obvious, but many make the same mistake — trying to apply cream or dye to a dirty surface. As a result, new products work much less effectively.

Why are there different types of cleaners? You often see ads for foam cleaners that supposedly work for any kind of dirt. In practice, this isn’t entirely true.

Different stains have different causes. Everyday dust, grease stains, old cream residues, or white salt stains all require a different approach. That’s why professionals use several types of cleaners.

Foam cleaners — for regular care

The main advantage of a quality foam cleaner is not only ease of use. Dense foam allows active ingredients to stay longer on the surface, evenly spread across the stained area, and effectively pull dirt particles out without over-wetting the item. This is especially important for suede and nubuck, which are sensitive to excess moisture.

Foam cleaners are perfect for:

• regular maintenance;
• removing dust and everyday dirt;
• preparing the item for further care.

💡 Expert tip
Don’t wait until your shoes are very dirty. Regular cleaning is much more effective and safer than trying to remove old, stubborn stains.

Vlotho recommends

LEDERREINIGER — foam cleaner for smooth leather and plastic parts.

VELVETREINIGER — foam cleaner for suede and nubuck.

Specialty cleaners

Sometimes regular cleaning isn’t enough. For example, if shoes have been treated with creams for several years, a layer of waxes, oils, and silicones gradually forms on the surface. Or white stains from winter road treatments appear. Grease stains can also deeply penetrate the material. In these cases, special cleaners are used, each designed to solve a specific problem.

Vlotho recommends

RENOMAX — deep cleaner for restoration and dyeing prep. Removes old creams, waxes, silicones, and care product residues.

LPINIO — mild cleaner for removing tough stains from sensitive materials.

EXTER — activator cleaner that prepares the surface before dyeing.

FETTABSORBER — product for removing grease stains.

SALZREINIGER — cleaner for salt stains and road de-icing residue.

WEISSREINIGER — cleaner for white shoes, effectively removing typical dirt from light materials.

Fat liquoring — when leather starts to lose elasticity

Over time, natural leather gradually loses its natural oils. This happens due to rain, snow, sunlight, temperature fluctuations, and regular cleaning. As a result, the leather becomes dry, less elastic, and ages faster. Many try to fix this with a new layer of cream or dye, but that doesn't restore the material's structure.

Fat liquoring products are designed for this purpose.

They replenish lost oils and help restore softness and flexibility to the leather.

💡 Interesting fact
Even expensive natural leather without regular nourishment gradually loses elasticity. That’s why professional restorers almost always use fat liquoring after deep cleaning.

Vlotho recommends

FRESHOIL — fat liquoring compound for restoring suede and nubuck.

SAUERFETT SF10 — professional fat liquoring product for restoring leather structure.

Color restorers — paint isn’t always necessary

If your item has just faded a bit, don’t rush to buy paint. In many cases, a color restorer is enough. It doesn’t create a new coating but refreshes the existing color, intensifying it and helping to conceal minor scuffs. This is especially convenient for routine care of shoes and accessories that have gradually lost their original brightness.

💡 Expert tip
If the color looks noticeably brighter after cleaning, you might not need full repainting at all.

Paints — when the color can’t be restored by care products

If your item has heavy scuffs, fading, stains, or you want to completely change the color, then paint is required. It’s important to remember that paints differ for various materials. Penetrating formulas are used for suede and nubuck, coloring fibers while maintaining the natural velvety texture. Specialized coatings are used on smooth leather, forming a durable and flexible colored layer.

Vlotho recommends

TIEFEN — penetrating paint for suede and nubuck.

FARBENFLEX — polyurethane paint for smooth leather.

HERFORD — paint for steering wheels and automotive leather.

MULTIPLAST — paint for automotive plastics.

EDGE HM — paint for leather edges.

Impregnations and creams — protection after care

After cleaning or restoration, it’s advisable to protect the item. That’s exactly what impregnations and creams are for. Impregnations create an invisible protective barrier that reduces water and dirt absorption, makes future care easier, and helps preserve results much longer. Creams nourish smooth leather surfaces, improve appearance, and help maintain elasticity.

💡 Common misconception
No impregnation makes shoes completely waterproof. Its job is to reduce moisture and dirt absorption and ease subsequent maintenance.

Vlotho recommends

LIPPE — water- and dirt-repellent impregnation for leather, suede, and nubuck.

Vlotho cream line for regular care of smooth leather.

Quick guide for choosing the right product:

If the item is just dirty - Foam cleaner

Old creams, impregnants, or silicones present - RENOMAX

White stains after winter - SALZREINIGER

Need to remove grease stains - FETTABSORBER

Leather has become dry and stiff - Fat liquoring

Color has slightly faded - Color restorer

Color is severely damaged - Paint

Need to protect the item after care - Impregnation

The key thing to remember - There’s no single product that simultaneously cleans, restores, colors, and protects the item.

Each product addresses a specific task. That’s why professional care always involves multiple steps: first cleaning, then—if necessary—restoring material and color, finishing with protection against moisture and dirt.

When you choose the right product for each specific task, leather, suede, and nubuck items will keep their attractive appearance longer and last significantly longer.